Peranakan traditions and customs

Like many other Peranakans, my mother observed and practised Chinese traditions and customs. Because of their Chinese blood ties, Peranakans performed ancestral worship,and also worship deities, like their counterparts in China.

My mother would consult the almanac, horoscope and calenders looking for symbolic meaning of food to be offered on specific occasions to ensure continuity of family prosperity and harmony.

She was not tutored in Mandarin so she had to rely on the diviner (usually the temple monk) to convey the message from the pages of the "I-ching" when she wanted specific answers to the future.

Apart from the various Chinese Deities, Peranakans, particularly the women do not hesitate to follow the practices of other religions and superstitions.

The funny thing about the Peranakans even to this day, is the fact that they would go to the Roman Catholic church on "Good Friday" and "Palm Sunday" and light candles in observance of what they termed "Datuk mati" i.e "death of Jesus Christ".

If there was a procession, they would follow the figurines of Christ and the Virgin Mary, carrying lighted candles thus upholding Jesus Christ as one of their deities.The memory of all the kebaya clad women with their children in tow was a sight to behold at the church. Somehow there was an air of mysticism on that particular day.

Mother would also bring us to Hindu temples and offer bananas and coconuts to the priest for prayers. She would also observe the taboos when visiting. At times during "Thaipusam" a parade of "kavadi carriers" would pass through Heeren Street, and a character named "hantu tetek" ( because of the ridiculously long breasts painted on the costume) would be part of the entourage , and she frightened the life out of young children like me with her long red tongue and matted black hair.

One would be surprised to know that the Nyonyas also consult the Malay "bomohs" and "pawangs". They would visit and pray at the shrines of holy Muslims, known as "kramats" and abstain from eating pork a few days before visiting . They make offerings of "Nasi Kunyit" and some dishes, upon wishes being granted and take home pieces of the incense called "kemenyan" to burn in the house to welcome goodluck.

Today, there are different set of beliefs by the younger generation and many may not be aware of the rich heritage that the Nyonya Baba community has.

Let's begin with the celebration of the Lunar New Year. In China, this is a celebration to herald the onset of Spring. This is a tradition celebrated by the Chinese universally. In the Nyonya household, the ladies would be busy baking the traditional cakes which they are renowned for.

In those days, the measurement of "chupak" and "gantang" were being used and in most cases the addition of salt, eggs , water, condiments and spices were"agak agak" i.e. estimates.

In fact I still have my mother's handwritten recipes but I can't figure out how much "ten cents" worth of cinnamon would be today!

Many old time favourites like "kueh koya"(green pea cookies), "kueh makmur" (ghee balls with peanut filling), "kueh ros" (sweet ros), old-fashioned peanut cookies, "kueh bangkit", "kueh bahulu", "kueh kapit" and "kueh tar" (pineapple jam tart) are available today in commercial centres.

However, there are still traditionalists like me who prefer to make them myself. Without doubt, homebaked ones are definitely superior to commercially made ones, as a lot of attention to detail has been given, as well as ensuring that the quality is consistent with the "Nyonya stamp" of approval. With the Peranakan women it was a labour of love!

Young women today are a lucky lot. I grew up at a time when modern gadgets like the oven , blender, juicer were not available as yet, this part of the world. Much of the work was painstaking and I use to disappear whenever my mother called for help to beat the eggs with a spiral egg beater for the "kueh kapit". I dreaded rolling the hot kueh kapit with my hands as it would smart from the heat ...but of course over time, one becomes an expert.

Preparation for the reunion dinner would also have the aroma of fragrant fried onions, garlic and spices wafting through the house. Many households in the early days would already have plumped up their ducks and chickens reared in their backyards for this occasion. These animals are thus considered organic meat in this present time.

As my mother had already been trained in her early years in the fine art of cooking, she was able to cook a slew of dishes and of course, everyone had to pitch in with the pounding of onions, garlic and chillies. We also had to help our mother dress up the altar table to offer food to our ancestors first before partaking the reunion dinner.

Peranakans express filial piety with ceremonious presentation of food when praying to their ancestors. I remember arranging blue and white coloured crockery which is customary for offerings to our ancestors. They would be arranged in neat rows , beside a teacup and saucer. A spoon was placed by each teacup. There would also be wine glasses to offer arak (alcohol).

There would be a dozen bowls of cooked rice pressed into high mounds followed by a couple of rows of cooked food. The favourite foods of the Nyonyas would be offered. Ayam pong teh, (chicken stew in bean gravy), ayam buah keluak ( chicken cooked with Indonesian black nuts) curry ayam (chicken in curry gravy), babi chin ( thick pork stew) and chap chai (vegetarian dish with cabbage, cloud ear mushrooms, beancurd and lily buds).

In addition, a slice of boiled pork belly, a whole boiled chicken, a dish of julienned bangkwang( turnip), dark soya sauce, vinegar , acar (pickles) and salad would accompany the dishes.

Small plates of peanut candies, sweet rice crispies, kueh koci, (conical shaped glutinuous rice dumplings filled with sweetened grated coconut), intended to show servitude to the ancestor, black kueh koo, ( black glutinuous rice dumplings as opposed to the red ones offered on birthdays) were also placed on the altar. Fruits like oranges, bananas and short stacks of sugarcane formed another row.

As in real life, Peranakan cuisine would be incomplete without the offering of a sireh box. The sireh (betel leaves) would be spread with kapur (lime paste) sprinkled with shavings of buah pinang (areca or betel nut). A bowl of water with a leaf of fresh mustard green would be placed on each side of the urn, plus a white handkerchief, purportedly for the spirits to wash and wipe their hands.

Today, ancestral worship is made easier with modern equipment. Besides, many people have taken to ordering the favourite food from stalls or restaurants, making the ancestors turn in their graves I suppose. However, I have not received any complaints from my ancestors as yet!