Thursday, April 2, 2009

Peranakan Lifestyle

Father and Friend in Western suits, 1936


In the early 19th century, Britain grouped their colonies of Singapore, Malacca and Penang to form "The Straits Settlement". The Baba and Nyonya community thus became known as "Straits-born Chinese" or just "Straits Chinese" due to their ancestral link with motherland China.

As a result of British influence and education, many Straits Chinese men became proficient in the English language, affluent in their lifestyle and even picked up the British favourite sport of cricket. My father belonged to this era of change , and browsing through his old photos gives me an insight of life just like the "Gatsby" of the 1930's.

The Straits Chinese "Babas" became wealthy business men acquiring assets in land and buildings, plus trading in rubber and tin. My immediate neighbours were the descendants of Tan Kim Seng, a well known Baba entrepreneur, and I recall that the back of their house had a roller for rubber sheets, and I used to puke at the smell of the rubber sheets and latex balls. Too young to realise then that they were rolling in money from the rubber!

The Peranakans led an opulent lifestyle with their wealth. They lived in large bungalows and dressed in fine European styled clothing and jewellery. Their houses were furnished with a giddy mixed of artefacts... imported Edwardian or Victorian furniture from England, mirrors from Italy and fine porcelain from China.

However the majority of Peranakans lived in linked houses which are today classified as heritage buildings in all the three former colonies. The centre court of the houses has an air passage to allow sunlight in and also a well for collecting rainwater. Indeed I remember having to draw water from the well for my bath and occasionally some fishes were put in to clean up the algae.

During my younger days, the "bucket system" was still in use, and the whole house would stink for hours and my appetite would be gone for the day. The "night soil" carrier would regaled us with tales of their mishaps which would put us off food for days.

The Peranakans became more sociable with British influence. Every occasion would be celebrated with dancing the "joget". The Nyonyas dressed in their best kebaya whilst the men would be in their Western clothes that were in vogue.

Later the modern Nyonyas would be dressed in "samfoos" which they called "Baju Shanghai". Women from different communities would also join in the merrymaking to the music of "dondang sayang" and there would be an exchange of "pantuns", a form of local poetry in motion.

My house was a hive of activity when I was young. Mother's friends and neighbours would drop by for a game of "cherki" ( a form of ginrummy). A favourite pastime of the Nyonyas, this card game gives them an opportunity to catch up on the local gossip as well as become a matchmaker for some eligible bachelors.

"Cherki" time was also an occasion for the Nyonyas to savour the many desserts prepared by their daughters or maids reflecting her level of culinary skills. Elderly Nyonyas were critical of the flavour, colour and taste of the desserts and any comments made were prejudicial to the future of the prospective bride.

Although I was taught to play "cherki", it was not my preference. I was more interested in riding a rented Raleigh bicycle that cost 10 cents an hour, (a day's pocket money).I was not tall enough to ride but I could do it side saddle and that was the best time of my life. I was not restricted by my parents and had the freedom to run with the boys in the neighbourhood...literally speaking.

I guess that's why the illustrious and wealthy neighbours of mine forbade their children to mix with me. I did not qualify in their eyes to earn the title of a "Nyonya" maiden who was soft spoken, obedient and genteel!